Sauvignon Blanc 2021 del Viñedo Eisele

The Wine Advocate
RP 93

Joe Czerwinski: The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc spent 12 months on the lees in a combination of stainless steel eggs (23%), concrete eggs (12%), used oak barrels (33%), and new oak barrels (32%). A hint of pencil shavings accentuates the grapefruit, blackcurrant, and nectarine aromas on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is full-bodied and slightly creamy, culminating in a long, juicy finish.

Part of François Pinault’s Artemis Domaines group since 2013, when it was acquired from Bart and Daphne Araujo, the local team is led by Managing Director Antoine Donnedieu de Vabres and Technical Director Hélène Mingot, both of whom have been with the estate since 2013. In terms of the overall philosophy, little has changed since the change in ownership. The grapes continue to be grown biodynamically, and the aim remains to allow the terroir to express itself, particularly through the lens of Cabernet Sauvignon.

This was my first official visit to this renowned Calistoga site, though I’ll admit I’ve been to the legendary vineyard on a few occasions before (I was a member of the Araujo Estate waiting list for the 1994–1998 vintages). For those unfamiliar with the site, it’s located on Pickett Road on the eastern side of the AVA, next to the neighboring Alfred Frediani Ranch, which Artemis acquired in early 2023 for a reported $18.5 million. That property added just under 28 acres of vines to Eisele’s existing 38 acres. Extensive restructuring is underway to bring the new vineyards up to Eisele standards, though the head-trained Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in 1983 have been retained—they were previously used to produce Altagracia.

Cabernet Sauvignon is destemmed—an optical selector has been in use since 2020—and the whole grains are transferred to the vats, where they spend two to three days in pre-fermentation maceration. Fermentation is long and slow, using indigenous yeasts and keeping temperatures below 82°F (27.8°C) until the end, when the vats can reach 84 to 86°F (28.9 to 30°C). The best lots spend 24 to 30 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation occurs in the tanks, and then the wines are racked into barrels, usually not racked again until blending and bottling.

Estate fans know that there is also a small amount of Syrah planted, enough to produce 250 to 300 cases a year. “We can’t make the best Syrah in the world,” Donnedieu said. “But the goal is to make something enjoyable and easy to drink.” Most years, it’s considerably better than that.

The Sauvignon Blanc is about 75 percent Musqué and is aged in a diverse array of stainless steel, concrete and new and used French oak. It’s not as full-bodied and rich as some Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs, and it’s more French-style restraint than most. “If you wait for the aromas on the vine,” Mingot said, “it’s already too late.”

Having now visited two Artemis properties—I previously reported on Château Grillet when reviewing Rhône wines—I am confident that these historic properties are in good hands, committed to responsible land management and producing high-quality wines. While most sales are made direct to consumer via waitlist, some bottles do make it into distribution and can be found in local restaurants in Napa as well.

Jeb Dunnuck: The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, which includes a wealth of the Musqué clone, is a fragrant, exotic, and incredibly floral example of the variety that practically leaps out of the glass. With vibrant acidity, medium body, and beautiful overall balance, it can be enjoyed today, but will be even better with 2 to 3 years of bottle age and, I suspect, will evolve for more than a decade if it so chooses.

Jancis Robinson: This is a beautiful wine, with a complex range of aromas and flavors, including notes of grapefruit, hints of melon and tropical fruits, fresh hay and a mineral element that brings focus and depth to the whole. The mouthfeel is delightful, balancing fresh, juicy acidity with just the right tension and a fleshy texture, while maintaining the focus on elegance combined with pleasure. Fresh, refined and long. It needs more time in the bottle, but already offers a sense of completeness that anticipates a promising future. Sauvignon Blanc from this site ages consistently for long periods, so any lover of aged white wines can confidently cellar this bottle for many years to come.