St Martin's Day (São Martinho, 11 November) is as much a fixture in Portugal's wine calendar as Christmas. There's the saying about St Martin's summer, there's the magusto with roast chestnuts, and there's the custom of tasting the new wine. For Vinogrande, it's the first big moment of autumn and winter before the December rush.
What is a magusto (in two lines)
Roast chestnuts, friends and something in the glass — often new wine, jeropiga or a simple, fresh red. It's not a critics' tasting. It's an autumn party.
In the glass: directions that work — young, fresh reds
Dão, lighter Douro, or fruit-driven reds. Chestnuts are sweet and floury; a red that's too heavy or too sweet becomes cloying. Go for freshness and restrained tannin.
Jeropiga and fortified must (when the table calls for tradition)
In many places St Martin's Day goes hand in hand with jeropiga or fortified grape must. If your household already has that habit, respect it. If not, a well-chosen young red is enough.
Port to finish
A Ruby or a younger Tawny rounds off the evening with chestnuts and conversation. You don't need a rare Vintage for a magusto — you need pleasure and a bottle that empties without fuss.
White? Yes, if you like
A white with some weight (Douro or Dão) also goes with chestnuts and cheese. Less classic at a magusto, but perfectly valid at home.
For gift ideas this season, browse our selection of wine gifts.
